Sweater in Kontstrikking technique. Size 50 (myself, slender, 180cm).

Model Stein

©Stein Lyftingsmo

stein@lyftingsmo.no

Blueprint

Picture of Modell Stein here. NB  2 MEGABYTE !!!!!

 

Needles No3 (mm diameter). 1 cable needle, 1 circular needle sweater size, 1 or 2 circular needles arm size.

 

Yarn: Finullgarn (Rauma) 5x50g of each colour (light and dark).

Knitting tension: 5 squares measure 32cm (12.6 inches) diagonally

 

Note: Since the squares are positioned diagonally, each stitch covers more horizontal space. A diagonal stitch equals about 1.4 vertical stitches. This phenomena has to be taken into account (and usually compensated for) in Starting triangles and Finishing triangles.

 

 

Rib in light colour, 216 stitches, ca 15 rounds.

 

Starting triangles: Same colour as rib. First reduce the number of stitches to 160 (16 squares of 10 stitches each) while knitting the row of triangles. Reduce 7 stitches each 2 triangles (4 in the first, 3 in the second triangle).

Knit 2 plain stitches. Turn (from now on slip the first stitch on every turn) and purl back. Turn.

Knit 3 plain stitches. Turn and purl back.

Knit 4 plain stitches etc.

When 10 stitches are kitted and purled, then kit and purl them again once. First triangle is now completed. Make 15 more triangles to complete the round.

 

Squares: Pick up (use cable needle if needed) 10 slip stitches along the edge of  a square (or triangle). On triangles the last slip stitch must be improvised down by the rib. Hold the work with the wrong side towards you. Start with dark colour. Purl the slip stitches , turn and knit them. (If you manage to knit ‘left handed’  instead of purling, you will save a lot of turning the work.) From now on slip the first stitch on every turn. Turn and purl back except the last stitch. Knit this together with a stitch from the other (light colour) square (triangle). Turn and knit back. Turn. Repeat until all stitches from the other square (Triangle) are cast off. Repeat to complete the row of squares.

 

The pattern: In the seventh dark colour row of squares don’t knit squares No 8 and 16. Knit further upwards as the work gets narrower (between the dotted lines on the blueprint).

Back side: In the 10th dark colour row of squares, knit square No 1 as a Finishing triangle (see below).

Front side:

Square No 2: (in the 8th dark colour row of squares). Pick the slip stitches once more from the wrong side, and knit another square No 2 behind the other (after the five ordinary squares are completed). Cast off the back side square No 2 ( the two lower edges of the square are attached to the work).

Sq No 3: The edge is cast together with the front square No 2, and is cast off (towards the neckline).

Sq No 4: Knit from slip stitches that are picked from the back Sq No 2.

Sq No 5: Cast off towards the neckline.

Sq No 6: Nothing special.

Now starts the knitting from the neckline, and now the knitting turns in a 90º angle. The dark colour squares must now be knitted the way the light colour squares previously were knitted, and vice versa. Along the dotted lines on the blueprint some stitches have to be turned when picked, in order not to get them double turned.

Sq No 7: This square will temporarily be a flip, until you get another square to cast it against.

Sq No 8: Flip.

Sq No 9: Cast on 10 stitches further along the needle. The edge is cast off with square No 7. Remember to knit back and forth before you cast off the first stitch.

Sq No 10: Rather normal. Remember the stitches that have to be turned. Knit the rest of the right shoulder.

Sq No 11: Cast on 10 stitches on a cable needle. The edge is cast off with square No 12.

Sq No 13: Rather normal.

Sq No 14: Flip.

Sq No 15: As square No 9. The edge is cast off with square No 6. Knit the rest of the left shoulder.

Sq No 16: Rather normal. Here 6 squares meet in the same corner.

 

Arms: The arms have 18 rows of squares (9 dark rows) before the row of Finishing triangles. All the squares in a row are reduced by knitting together the two first stitches on the square’s last row of stitches. Reducing in square rows No 1, 2, 4, 5, 8, 11, 14, and 17. Both dark and light squares now have 6 stitches. Faster and further reducing increases the tapering, and also reduces the length of the arm (if not compensated).

 

Finishing triangles: Pick up the slip stitches and purl them, turn and knit back. Turn.

Purl until 1 stitch left. Purl 2 stitches together. Turn. Knit until 1 stitch left. Turn.

Purl until 1 stitch left. Purl 2 stitches together. Turn. Knit until 2 stitches left. Turn.

And so on until the second last cast off. Slip the last knitted stitch over to the left needle. Knit 2 stitches together – and the first finishing triangle is completed.

 

Rib on the arms: As usual. Be very aware of not getting the casting off too tense. If you have reduced to less than 6 stitches in each square, it may be necessary to pick up new stitches to avoid the rib to get narrow.

 

Neck lining: The lining must be rather non-elastic. I have used 2 rows of double crochet in the light colour.

 

SMALLER SIZED (NORWEGIAN SIZE 36)

 

Same type needles and yarn (4x50g of each colour).

Each square is 9 stitches wide. Reduce (between rib and Starting triangles) down to 16x9=144 stitches. Otherwise as the larger size.

This sweater I have made with the arms rather evenly reduced. The arms have 20 rows of squares (10 dark rows). Reducing in rows No 2, 3, 6, 7, 10, 13, 16, and 19.

 

Both the small and the larger sweater are shortish. Those who fancy long sweaters may of course add another pair of square rows.